A Portugal Road Trip – The Perfect 12 Day Itinerary

If you’re planning a road trip through Portugal and are overwhelmed with the process, read on. I’ve got you. 

When we planned our Portugal road trip, I really tried not to overschedule us. Portugal is not a large country, just 350 miles long and 135 miles wide, and yet there’s so much to do and see. We created an itinerary that minimized driving days by beginning in Porto in the north, continued on through the Douro Valley, down to Evora and to the gorgeous Algarve Coast, with a great finish back up in Lisbon.

We were able to soak in the beauty of Portugal’s culture, people, wine, music, history, seaside, and countryside with a car rental for the days between Porto and Lisbon. The roads in Portugal are easy to navigate. Pick your car up when you leave Porto and drop it off when you arrive in Lisbon.

This post will give you tips on where to go, where to stay, where to eat, and all the things not to miss.

Notes About Driving in Portugal:

• Book your car rental for pick up and drop off either at the Porto Airport or one of the city center car rental locations.
• Many of the roads are wide highways, some are country roads and are more narrow.
• Portugal is a drive on the right side of the road country.

Click on the Map for all the places on this Portugal Road Trip Itinerary

Days 1, 2 & 3 Portugal Itinerary – Porto

Porto is as charming a city as everyone says it is. The architecture and rich history make it a great place to begin a Portugal adventure. It’s on the northwest edge of the country where the Douro River meets the Atlantic ocean. Porto is famous for its hills, but even more famous for the brilliant blue tiles that cover its buildings. Good walking shoes are crucial!

Don’t Miss These 11 Porto Historic Center Sites:

1. University of Porto at the Square of the Lions (Praça de Gomes Teixeira) This is a two-minute walk north from Cordoaria Park. The grand staircase and facade of the building are worth a stop.
   
2. Fountain of the Lions (Praça de Gomes Teixeira) This famous fountain is right in front of the University building. You can’t miss it. 
   
3. Torre dos Clerigos (Clerigos Tower) A few minutes from the university square to the south is the church tower, completed in 1750. For a fee you can wait in line and climb the 225 steps for a panoramic view of the city.
   
4. Carmo & Carmelitas Churches Just east from the Clérigos Tower, you’ll find the famous two churches. You can’t miss the enormous azulejo tile panel on the Carmo exterior wall.
   
5. Livraria Lello Around the corner from the Carmo Church, on Rua das Carmelitas, is this infamous book store. One of the oldest in the world (1906) and a supposed inspiration for J.K. Rowling. We bought our tickets for later in the day, after our walking tour. See details below.
   
6. Vitória Viewpoint (Miradouro da Vitória) Just downhill toward the Vitória neighborhood is one of the great viewpoints of the city.
   
7. Historic Jewish Quarter A walk through the narrow streets of the medieval Judiaria below Vitória will bring you to some of the oldest parts of the city.
   
8. Porto Sé Cathedral From the Jewish quarter streets up to the cathedral square, you’ll see the Porto Cathedral built in the 12th century. This is a Roman Catholic church and is one of the city’s oldest and important Romanesque monuments.
   
9. São Bento Train Station  A bit further downhill from the cathedral, is one of the most significant places you’ll see in Porto. The main hall of this historic train station is covered floor to ceiling in about 20,000 hand-painted azulejo tiles, telling the story of Portugal.
   
10. Porto City Hall (Câmara Municipal do Porto)  Main Square (Avenida dos Aliados) Just a short walk north from São Bento is the Neoclassical city hall building built in 1955 with a huge clock tower. 
    
11. Cais da Ribeira Wrap up your walk by heading down to the riverfront. This is the promenade along the river with the colorful houses on the hillside, shops, and plenty of places to eat.

On Day 2, walk through the historic streets and across the Ponte Dom Luis I bridge to the Vila de Gaia. There, you’ll stroll along the river and make your way to one of the many port wine cellars. Enjoy some wine, the riverfront restaurants, take a boat ride, or a tram ride before the walk back to Ribeira.

Don’t Miss These 5 Porto/Gaia Sites:

1. Ponte Dom Luis I (Dom Luis I Bridge)
   This bridge is the iconic double-deck, iron arch bridge that connects Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia across the river.  The upper deck and lower decks have pedestrian walks. We walked over on top and returned on the lower deck.
   
2. Niepoort Wine Tasting
   Address: Rua Candido dos Reis 670, Vila Nova de Gaia
   Hours: Check the Niepoort website for current tour times and booking.
   Niepoort Caves, Vila Nova de Gaia was recommended by a very close friend and professional wine tour guide. We were treated like royalty when we arrived, and tasted some of the best wines we’ve ever had!
   
3. Teleferico de Gaia (Gaia Cable Car)
   Round trip: 10 euros adults, 5 children. – Book tickets online in advance.
   Hours are 10AM – 6PM in winter, to 7PM in spring, to 8PM in summer.
   The Teleferico de Gaia cable car has been running since 2011 and connects the Gaia waterfront promenade, up to the hilltop near the Serra do Pilar Monastery. The whole ride covers about 600 meters and takes about five minutes. The views are worth it!
   Access the cable car from:
   The lower station on Avenida Ramos Pinto, next to the wine cellars.
   The upper station next to the Jardim do Morro metro stop.
   
4. Rabelo Boat Ride on the Douro
   Several companies run boat tours from the Gaia and Ribeira waterfront. 
   
5. Tram 1 Ride by the Water
   Departs from: Infante stop, in front of Igreja de Sao Francisco, Ribeira
   Hours: Regular service throughout the day; check STCP for current schedules Admission: Standard STCP fare (use your Andante card or purchase on board)
   Consider riding the historic Tram 1 from the Infante stop on the Porto waterfront (right in front of the Igreja de Sao Francisco) all the way out to Foz do Douro. Tram 1 is Porto’s only surviving heritage tram line, that runs along the Douro River to where the river meets the Atlantic Ocean. The whole ride takes about 20 minutes, and the tram is quaint and slow. When you get off at the Passeio Alegre stop, you’ll be at the edge of the upscale seaside neighborhood of Foz, where you can walk the riverfront promenade toward the lighthouse at dusk.

On Day 3, visit the lively neighborhood of Bolhão with its popular shops and famous Cafe Majestic, blue tile churches, and historic market place.

Don’t Miss These 4 Porto Bolhão Sites:

1. Mercado do Bolhao
   This is a beautifully restored 1914 market hall with over 70 vendors selling fish, meat, produce, cheese, wine, and flowers. There are plenty of spots to sit for a snack and people watching.
   
2. Chapel of Lost Souls  (Capela das Almas) Praça da Batalha in Bolhao
   The Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas or Chapel of Santa Catarina)  is the famous 18th-century church you’ve probably seen photos of. It’s completely covered in over 15,000 blue-and-white ceramic tiles that are more stunning up close than you can imagine. Similar to the azuelos tiles you saw at the train station and other churches, they’re all hand painted and breathtaking.
   
3. Igreja de Santo Ildefonso in Bolhao This is another stunning church with 11,000 azulejo tiles painted in 1932.

4. Livraria Lello – If you choose to visit the book store, READ THIS FIRST!
   This stop has become an insane tourist attraction, so visit at your own risk! It is one of the oldest book stores in the world and is said to have inspired JK Rowling when writing Harry Potter. It really is an unusually cool and beautiful store. If you can tolerate the crowds, or if you’re able to go on an off time of day (early morning), you won’t be sorry.
   Address: Rua das Carmelitas 144, Porto
   Hours: Monday to Sunday, 9:00 AM to 7:30 PM. Closed January 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, June 24, and December 25.
   Admission: Silver ticket, 10 euros (deductible from book purchase). Gold ticket, 15.95 euros (includes a book).
   Timed Entry. This stunning historic bookshop requires a timed ticket that you buy in advance. Do NOT just show up and expect to walk in.

Book Your Livraria Lello Entry Ticket Here

Where to Eat in Porto

• Molete Bread & Breakfast (Av. de Rodrigues de Freitas) Freshly baked bread, pastries, and great eggs and coffee.
• Cafe Santiago (Rua de Passos Manuel 226) Home of the legendary Francesinha, Porto’s over the top sandwich of cured meats and cheese under a spiced tomato and beer sauce. Not for me, but is for meat lovers!
• Taberna do Largo (Largo de Sao Domingos 69) Traditional Portuguese food. Our favorite dinner in Porto. We went twice!
• Bota & Bria (Rua do Comarcio do Porto) A cozy restaurant with Portuguese and Mediterranean tapas. And who doesn’t love tapas?

Where to Stay in Porto

The Pousada Porto Rua das Flores was the perfect choice for us . It’s a restored 18th century boutique hotel on a historic, pedestrian only street right in the heart of the old town. We loved the room, the service, and especially the location.

The Hotel Tipografia do Conto is a highly rated, affordable option in an excellent central location.

Day 4 Portugal Itinerary – Porto to the Douro Valley

Today begins your road trip adventure! Have breakfast, pick up your rental car, and head east into the Douro Valley. This is one of the oldest wine regions in the world, and the terraced hillsides plunging down to the river are some of the most beautiful scenery in Portugal. We don’t like to, nor do we recommend, drinking wine and driving, so spending the night in Douro is a good plan!

If you leave Porto early, you can drive 1 hour and stop in Amarante for coffee and pastry.
Then continue 1.5 hours to Pinhao where you’ll grab your boat tour.

Schedule your Douro River Cruise Here
Make a reservation for lunch Cozinha da Clara on the river at
Quinta de la Rosa

More time? Option: National Road 222 N222

This road was the link between the Douro Valley and Porto. This route for transporting wine and agricultural products has been a crucial part of Portugal and in recent years has been named the world’s most beautiful driving road. It runs from Vila De Gaia on the river all the way to Nova de Foz Côa near Spain.

Where To Stay in Duoro

Choose from the many Quinta boutique hotels in the region.

A Note About Pinhao
I have to warn you that Pinhao is not much of a town, but it is a good stopping point along the Douro River. There’s a lovely train station with beautiful tiles depicting the grape harvest. There are a few cafes and shops, but not much else. I recommend you stay at one of the many family owned Quintas (wineries) that have luxury lodging, dining, and views! 

Day 5 Portugal Itinerary – Drive to Coimbra

After breakfast, drive about 2 hours southwest to Coimbra. This is the small city with a famous and historic university. There’s an old town in Coimbra tucked in amongst the thriving city. We found it to be safe and pleasant enough, but honestly felt as though it wasn’t well preserved or well taken care of.  While I suggest you explore the old town, the real reason to visit Coimbra is the University campus and its historic buildings.

Don’t Miss These 5 Coimbra Sites:

1. University of Coimbra
   This school is one of the oldest universities in the world, established in 1290!  It is a UNESCO World heritage Site and has many very fascinating buildings. The campus is high on the hill in Coimbra and its students still wear the traditional black robes. Yes, another J.K. Rowling inspirational spot. Lucky for us, we showed up the day the students arrived back on campus after summer break!
   
2. The Joanina Library (Biblioteca Joanina)
   This is the highlight of Coimbra and one of the most beautiful libraries on earth. Built in the 1720s, it’s gilded, painted, and lined with ancient books and it famously houses a small colony of bats that come out at night to eat the insects that damage the books. How cool is that? Tickets are timed, so book ahead. (No photography is allowed inside).
   
3. The Cabinet of Curiosities
   Promise me you’ll go to the Science Building to see this crazy cool museum. This is a re-creation of the 18th century room that holds bizarre artifacts from all over the world. You’ll see the most unusual taxidermy, skeletons, and wild things kept in jars.
   
4. The Old Cathedral (Savelha)
   A striking 12th century Romanesque cathedral that looks more like a fortress, tucked into the old town.
   
5. Fado de Coimbra
   Coimbra has its own style of fado, the soulful Portuguese folk music, traditionally sung by men and students. If you can catch an evening performance, do! It’s a lovely warmup for the fado you’ll hear later in Lisbon.

Where to Eat in Coimbra

• Solar do Bacalhau Rua da Sota 10
  Traditional Portuguese cuisine, especially the famous salt cod dishes .
• Cafao Santa Cruz Praasa 8 de Maio
  A historic cafe inside a former chapel, a beautiful spot for coffee and a pastry.

Where to Stay in Coimbra

Day 6 Portugal Itinerary – Evora

Today you’ll drive about 2.5 hours south into the Alentejo region to our favorite place in Portugal, the walled town of Evora. It’s a picture perfect town with white and yellow buildings. An ancient aqueduct still runs through the town and even some homes are built within its arches. The Alentejo is Portugal’s quiet interior with rolling hills and cork oak trees, olive groves, and vineyards. Evora is a UNESCO World Heritage site that you can explore entirely on foot.

Don’t Miss These 5 Evora Sites:

1. The Roman Temple of Evora (Temple of Diana)
   The star of Evora is a remarkably preserved 1st century Roman temple with its Corinthian columns. It’s still standing in the heart of the old city. 
   
2. The Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos)
   If you’ve never been to an ancient European ossuary, then brace yourself. This is an unforgettable experience. The walls and columns of this 16th century chapel are lined with the bones and skulls of some 5,000 monks. Above the entrance reads a chilling inscription: “We bones that are here, for yours await.” 
   
3. Evora Cathedral (Sao de Ãvora)
   This is a beautiful Gothic cathedral. We climbed to the rooftop for sweeping views over the whitewashed town and the Alentejo plains beyond.
   
4. Praja do Giraldo
   The lively main square of Evora, framed by arches and cafes, with a marble fountain at its center. A great spot for a coffee and some people watching.
   
5. The Old Town Walls & Ãgua de Prata Aqueduct
   Wander the medieval lanes and follow the 16th century aqueduct, where houses and shops have been built right into the arches.

Where to Eat in Evora

• Fialho Travessa das Mascarenhas 16
  A legendary, family run Alentejo restaurant serving regional classics. One of our most memorable meals of the trip! The owner of our hotel suggested it and made a reservation for us. We were treated like royalty in the tiny home, turned restaurant.
• Botequim da Mouraria Rua da Mouraria 16A
  A tiny counter only spot with incredible traditional food no reservations, so arrive early.
• Cafe Alentejo Rua do Raimundo 5
  Cozy and authentic Alentejan cooking at a great price.

Where to Stay in Evora

The Albergaria do Calvario was a fabulous choice inside the old town walls beautifully restored, with an outstanding breakfast and great staff. The room was spacious and lovely. Highly recommend!

The Convento do Espinheiro is a stunning historic hotel in a former 15th century convent just outside town, with a spa, pool, and exceptional reviews.

Day 7, 8, & 9 Portugal Itinerary – Lagos (Algarve Coast)

Day 7 drive about 3 hours south from Evora to Lagos on the Algarve coast. The Algarve is famous for its golden sandstone cliffs, caves, and some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Europe. Lagos is a busy, walkable town with a walled historic center. There are several towns on the coast that people recommended to us, but we were very happy with just staying put in Lagos.

Don’t Miss These 5 Lagos Sites:

1. Ponta da Piedade
   The main attraction of the Algarve is its towering cliffs and rock formations in the sea. You can walk on the boardwalk’s clifftop trails from beach to beach and then descend the steep staircases to the water. My once in a lifetime adventure was the kayak tour I took through the caves and arches. Unforgettable!

Book This Popular Private Ponta da Piedade Boat Tour Here

2. Benagil Cave
   Probably Portugal’s most photographed sea cave is a cathedral-like grotto with a circular opening in its roof that lets sun pour in. You can only reach it by water, so book a boat tour, a kayak, or a SUP tour from nearby.

Consider This Top Rated Benagil Cave Boat & Kayak Tour

3. Praia Dona Ana & Praia do Camilo
   I want to warn you about these beautiful beaches. While we loved the soft sand, the lounge chairs and umbrellas we rented for $20 a day, and the perfect weather, the water is filled with seaweed. I’ve heard that certain times of the year this is not the case, but we were there in September and it was hard to find a spot to swim or wade in the water that wasn’t just packed with seaweed. 

4. Lagos Old Town
   Do not try to take a car into old town! Take an Uber there and back. It is one of those busy ancient villages with winding cobblestone streets inside the old town walls. You’ll find it filled with tourist shops, restaurants, and street entertainers.

5. Sagres & Cape St. Vincent
   If you want to take a drive, apparently 30 minutes west is Sagres and Cape St. Vincent. This is the  southwest point of Europe, called “the end of the world.” 

Where to Eat in Lagos

• Cafe Gomba¡ Rua Candido dos Reis 56 A local institution for pastries and coffee.
• Ol Bastard’s Fish & Chips Rua Candido dos Reis 115 A British Style pub with great fish & chips. We ate there twice!
• O Camilo above Praia do Camilo Fresh grilled fish and seafood with a beautiful view over the beach. A perfect long lunch!
• A Forja Rua dos Ferreiros 17 Bustling, authentic, and popular with locals.
• Dos Artistas Rua Candido dos Reis 68 A fancier dinner atmosphere with a garden terrace and unique Portuguese cooking.

Where to Stay in Lagos

The Carvi Beach Hotel was an ideal place for us to stay. It is literally on the beach, has a roof top restaurant, a pool, and parking. We took Ubers to the old town in the evanings for dinner and shopping, but otherwise were able to walk the coastline and explore all the beaches from our hotel.

The Cascade Wellness Resort is perched on the cliffs just outside Lagos with pools, a spa, and stunning ocean views, yet close enough to town.

Day 10, 11, & 12 Portugal Itinerary – Lisbon

On Day 10 you’ll make the 3 hour drive north to Lisbon. Return your rental car once you arrive in the city. You DO NOT want to drive in Lisbon!

As one of Europe’s oldest cities, Lisbon’s history goes back over 3,000 years. It’s called “The City of Seven Hills,” and its millions of stairs combined with uneven cobblestones, require great walking shoes!

Don’t Miss These 7 Lisbon Sites:

1. A Walking Tour of Chiado, Baixa & Alfama
   Spend your first afternoon orienting to the city with a walking tour. You’ll pass through the Chiado district, down into the grid of Baixa downtown which was rebuilt after the a massive 1755 earthquake, and into the riverside Prasa do Comarcio, and then up into Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, Alfama.

Book This Top Rated Lisbon Walking Tour Here

2. Alfama & the Miradouros (Viewpoints)
   Alfama is a maze of steep cobblestone lanes, tiled facades, laundry strung between windows, and tiny fado bars. It’s also home to Lisbon’s best viewpoints: Miradouro de Santa Luzia, Miradouro das Portas do Sol, and Miradouro da Graasa are the three main ones.

3. Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle)
   This massive medieval castle crowns the highest point in Lisbon, with incredible views over the city and the Tagus River. Get tickets in advance. There was a very long line even on a random weekday morning in September.

4. Tram 28
   Try to fit in a ride on Tram 28, Lisbon’s famous yellow tram from the 1930s, which winds through the city’s most colorful neighborhoods. It’s very popular and can be crowded, so board at the start of the line (Martim Moniz) if you want a seat and a good view out the window.

5. Belam
   Home to Lisbon’s most famous monuments, all along the riverfront. Don’t miss the Jeranimos Monastery (an example of Manueline architecture and a UNESCO site), the Beam Tower standing guard in the river, and the Monument to the Discoveries. And of course, stop at Pastais de Belam for the original custard tarts, baked from a secret recipe since 1837!

6. Azulejos (Portuguese Tiles)
   I became obsessed with the gorgeous azulejos you’ll see all over the city. Wander into some of the tile shops. We watched a tile painter at work and I wanted to buy everything in the store! The National Tile Museum is THE place to see historic tile panels (check whether it’s reopened from renovation before you go).

7. Day Trip to Sintra & Cascais
   Just 40 minutes from Lisbon by train from Rossio Station, Sintra is packed with palaces set in its misty hills. See the colorful Pena Palace (go early to beat the busloads!), the Moorish Castle, and the mysterious Quinta da Regaleira with its spiral Initiation Well. Take the 434 tourist bus loop up to Pena first, then work your way down. From Sintra you can continue to the pretty seaside town of Cascais to end the day by the water.
   

Click Here to Book This Top Rated Small Group Tour to Sintra & Cascais

PRO TIP: We thought we had this day trip planned well, but things got a bit challenging! In retrospect, it would have been worth it to hire a private guide or book a group tour. This day involves a lot of transportation logistics, and a driver would have made it far less complicated. And whatever you do, DO NOT rent a car for Sintra. Driving and parking there is a nightmare.

Where to Eat in Lisbon

• Dear Breakfast Largo de Santo Antanio da Sao 16, Alfama A great spot to start the day.
• Manteigaria The best pastis de nata in the city, hands down. Warm out of the oven!
• Dinner & Fado Sao Miguel de Alfama Rua de Sao Miguel, Alfama
  One of our most treasured experiences is a fado house owned by a fado singer, whose mother owned it before her. The meal was substantial, the atmosphere cozy and authentic, and the musicians were unbelievable. (My husband is a professional musician, so we’re particular about these things, and this show was amazing!)
• Cervejaria Ramiro Avenida Almirante Reis 1 Lisbon’s most famous seafood spot. Be prepared to wait, or go early.

Where To Stay in Lisbon

The Pousada Alfama is in an excellent spot, right in the heart of the most historic and neighborhood. Just know the rooms are very small.

The Rossio Plaza Hotel is a highly rated hotel in an excellent, central location within walking distance of St. George’s Castle.

When is the Best Time to Visit Portugal?

The best time to visit Portugal depends on what you care about most – weather, crowds, prices, or beach time. We visited in September and had beautiful weather in Porto, a little rain in the Douro Valley, and warm, sunny days everywhere else. Here’s all the info you need for what to pack for Portugal!

• April – June Spring in Portugal is considered by many to be the best time to visit.
• July – August Summer is the most popular (and hottest) time to visit Portugal.
• September – October (this is when we visited) Early fall is a wonderful time to travel the Douro grape harvest happens in September, the beaches are still warm, and the crowds thin out.
• November- March Winter months are great if you want lower costs and don’t mind cooler, wetter weather!

All Set for Your Portugal Road Trip!

In a nutshell

12 days in Portugal is a beautiful amount of time. It’s enough to experience the astonishing variety of this small country without spending the whole trip in the car.

This itinerary gave us a wonderful mix of city, wine country, history, and coastline. We climbed the hills of Porto, drove through the terraced Douro Valley, visited a chapel of bones in Evora, kayaked into sea caves in the Algarve, and listened to Fado in the alleys of Lisbon.

If you’re planning your own 12 day Portugal road trip, don’t try to do everything. Choose thoughtfully and accept that Portugal will leave you wanting more.

xx,
Carrie